A few weeks ago, I was itching to get out of Calabria. Since I'd never been to Bari, I convinced Fra to take a mini vacation, and away we went!
Bari is a seaside town with a port on the east coast of Italy. It was a six-hour train ride from Soverato, and it was interesting to see the land flatten from the mountains of Calabria into the plains of Puglia.
I recommend spending two or three days in this beautiful town. Here's what you should do.
1. Head to Bari Vecchia
While the rest of Bari is fairly modern in comparison, it's Old Bari you want to see. The buildings here go as far back as the 11th century, and the streets are exactly what you imagine when you think of Old-World Italy.
Here you'll find no less than 40 churches, which is amazing, given that you want walk across Bari Vecchia in 10 minutes!
2. Watch the Nonne Make Orecchiette
Bari is famous for its street in Old Town where older women make orecchiette pasta right on the street! You can see these ear-shaped pastas in all colors, and you can buy them as gifts (or for yourself).
I paid €5 for two large bags, which I think was a steal for fresh pasta!
3. Break for Lunch at Mastro Ciccio
I'm still dreaming of this meal! We stopped at Mastro Ciccio, which is kind of fast food, but still super fresh and delicious. Here you'll find enormous sandwiches stuffed with octopus, sausage, meats, cheeses, potato croquettes...they're ridiculous in the best way.
They also served burrata deep fried with ragu sauce and meat inside! Oh my! It was surprisingly good. I also had fried shrimp and calamari. Everything was fresh, and the place had a line out the door, so obviously it's not a secret in Bari!
4. Visit the Basilica Pontificia San Nicola
If you want to narrow down the 40 churches to just one worth visiting, check out the Basilica. What I found interesting is that downstairs in the crypt there is an Orthodox chapel. I saw several women I assume were of the Orthodox religion visiting it with their heads covered.
When we came up from the crypt, I was surprised to see a wedding starting in the church! I guess they don't close the basilica to visitors, even for a wedding!
5. Check Out the Castello Svevo
Because Bari was a town on the sea, it had to have strong fortification to protect the city. Part of that protection came in the form of a castle built in the 12th century.
I loved this little tidbit: in the 1600s, Isabella D'Aragona and her daughter Bona Sforza remodeled the castle to Renaissance tastes! It just makes me laugh to think of her disliking the old, dusty castle and wanting to modernize it, just like any woman today would!
Bonus: Gelato!
One last thing before I go, and of course, it's food-related! After you visit the castle, head to Gentile directly across the street for a gelato or cremolata. We were told by locals it was the best in town, and I am inclined to agree!
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